- #CHANGING PALETTE TO USE BEADS ON PCSTITCH 9 HOW TO#
- #CHANGING PALETTE TO USE BEADS ON PCSTITCH 9 PORTABLE#
It will serve to absorb some of the light. If you find you have a hot spot (a bright area) in your image field, place the gray foam core on that side of the tent. I also have on hand, pieces of gray and white foam core board that I have used to direct the light. It was the most expensive part of this set up (next to the camera) and is optional.ĥ. I purchased a boom for my tripod that allows my camera to extend into the cube and directly over the beads. A regular tri-pod set up will allow you to come in at an angle.
The camera is on a tri-pod and is a necessity for clear pictures. The look like they're tinted purple or blue and give off a natural spectrum of light.Ĥ. The actual bulb is a 100 watt GE Reveal bulb that is found in most any store that sells light bulbs. The light is a clamp-on shop light from the hardware store and it cost about $7. I've found that glossy photo paper gives a nice reflection, if you like that effect.ģ. Some whites are not all that white so you might want to try different papers. I use white printer paper for my background. My lighting shines down from the top in the center of the cube, toward the surface of the beads that lay flat.Ģ. Dale's pvc light box is beneficial if you do not have some type of framework or stand that allows your light to shine over the nylon light cube.ġ.
#CHANGING PALETTE TO USE BEADS ON PCSTITCH 9 PORTABLE#
Since that time, many brands of light tents have come on the market, at reasonable prices, and I now use a portable white nylon cube (I found mine on eBay).
#CHANGING PALETTE TO USE BEADS ON PCSTITCH 9 HOW TO#
Dale's tutorial shows how to build a pvc pipe light box, step by step. When I originally wrote this article I was using a similar set-up that was adapted from an article at WetCanvas! by Dale Lynn titled "Improve your Glass, Bead & Jewelry Photographs".
I also did not have the proper conditions for sunlight, whether it be direct or indirect, and wanted a set-up that I could use any time of the day. I found that while they might work for single, upright objects, I couldn't achieve the same effect for my sets of glass beads that I wanted to photograph flat. I have tried many set-ups and manipulated many variables (lighting, background, angles, etc.) based on what other people have shown to work for them. I have seen how-to articles on how to achieve quality digital images for single objects with the camera aiming from the front.
Hopefully this tutorial will help you come closer, if not achieve the image quality that you desire. It can be extremely frustrating to achieve high quality digital images of your glass beads and jewelry. Changes have been made based on questions I have received and to keep up with the times. This is a rewrite of an article I wrote for WetCanvas! in June 2004.
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